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PE and "Fool from the North"
Chukchi bloggers reached Zen with limited Internet
Media in the polar night, under the northern lights and crazy "southerner". This winter, the Khlebnikovs from Pevek stirred Russian social networks. No HYIP - only sincere stories about the northernmost city of the country. In his spare time, the accountant and event-manager conduct public Vkontakte, original channels on Youtube and Yandex.Dzena.
- Fervent greetings from the cold Chukotka! Tired of haypovy topics? Tired of the Challenges, Tops and other mainstream? You already know how easy it is to earn on the Internet without attachments, but about Chukotka do not know practically nothing? Then welcome to our channel! From Chukotka with Love! - so salute subscribers Efim and Valeria ("Fima Psyna" and "Fool from the North"), on your page a new service of a major search engine. Their project works on the principle of DIY, from the English. movement "Do It Youself"And Indie, that is, regardless of financial support from outside.
Officially, Lera works as an editor at the Pevek television studio, Yefim is a bookkeeper at Navport Pevek JSC.
ZEEN AND HELEN
EFIM: I was born, grew up, and almost all my life I spent in Chukotka. Lera rushed after me like a faithful wife of the Decembrist. We met in Voronezh, the fate has developed so that we have some common friends at some moment. We 8 years have come to the point of being together. She's in Pevek for a year and a half. Lera graduated from Voronezh State University, I am an international institute of computer technologies. With Yandex.Dzen we happened, as with a waving wing of the butterfly, which gives rise to a typhoon at the other end of the Earth. A year and a half ago I started to keep public on Vkontakte Pevek-native city. I was looking for a hobby, and there just needed an active administrator, because the activity on it was almost zero. He began to think, than to fill the group so that there was a stable information flow. I began to take reposts and information from general sources. As a result: they collected an audience, rubrics, photos and video. The next stage of development was the attempt to create a video project and we succeeded. Lera gave me a camera for her birthday. I said: "Oh, cool, now I'll go and if possible shoot." We have allocated a certain amount from the family budget, which allowed uploading the video to the channel.
Photo Shoot: Denis Smirnov
Now on our Youtube channel 30 episodes about Pevek and surroundings. In the autumn, a travel-blogger Alexander Nikulin arrived in Pevek. Although for him it was not Pevek's first visit, he was still preparing to travel and found my channel. In Pevek, we met, talked about life in the city, the Internet, blogging and much more. We exchanged contacts and since then we have maintained contact. He helps us and suggests ways to further develop our project. About Yandex.Den we learned from him. He said that there is such a platform, which only started working since July, you can go there, because there is little information on Chukotka. After a couple of weeks, we were noticed and offered to give an interview for the "Channel of the Day" column. The reason for pride was the post that got 10 thousand views and about 300 fingers up - for a highly specialized channel it's almost a record. Another nice news was the opportunity to receive sponsorship support in the amount of 300 thousand rubles. As a channel participating in the support program, we are an example for others. It's not just taking infopovods to suck or hooking up all sorts of HYIPs, we motivate other channels to be unique and original. Do not drag on the lead of the mainstream, but bend your line.
We have on the channel There are several rubrics, we are trying to develop in several directions. The money comes in part to us, we report for certain points. Exactly decided on the future that we will take the technique. The computer is absolutely not pulling installation. Those who watch us complain about the quality of sound and picture. Today, the total occupation of public, video project and channel is becoming increasingly difficult, because in addition to Internet activity there is real life, which is in the first place - this is work, family, and active recreation. And now there are enough bloggers, and, in principle, the site is busy. In Anadyr (the capital of the PJSC. - EastRussia) there is a presenter Igor Badanov, he will post tons of material on the Instagram in Instagram. This year, 20 people from Anadyr and other areas of Chukotka were sent to VEF. I will not say that everyone here is Sobolev or Druzhko, and everyone is trying to troll each other, there is no such thing. There are very cool photographers who are again in our group.
LERA: My nickname "Fool from the North" is a popular song by the band "LaScala", the lead singer from Anadyr. She flew to Moscow, and after some time released a song that became a hit in alternative circles. She sings, referring to the young man, that" a fool from the north "because of the difference in time zones I won’t sleep, listen to you. We liked the play on words. When I first arrived in Chukotka, it was hard for me to adapt, I went and clapped eyes on everything. I am afraid that I will be fired for these words, but I’ll tell you about my first impression. We flew on a plane, everything was fine, I think I will look for an hour We're somewhere close to where I’m imprisoned. And then it starts to decline, and I understand that we sit in a ... puddle. There is no landing strip, no lanterns, nothing. I think, my God, Lera. I’m used to big to the terminals where you go out with things and wait for the bus, you are carried as a white person, handed over to your hands, a ribbon, luggage. And then you exit to the city like an underground passageway at some train station. I got so lost.
Photo Shoot: Denis Abolmasov
LERA: In Voronezh, I worked in an advertising agency as a coordinator of promotional and event projects. But I decided that I will have time to build a career, and the family - no, and flew. Then I got a job close to the profession - an editor on television, then my diploma can be stitched somehow. The first month I was in the excitement, I liked the privacy after all these promoters, customers, customers. You walk, but the grass smells good, the expanses, some berries. Everything is so beautiful, there is no people, silence in the streets. And a month later he wants to - everything, enough silence, you can return to the usual rhythm. And nowhere. My friend said: "When I come to Chukotka, I get the feeling that I am covered with a jar and canned." In 5 months, I could not stand it and said: "Take me soon ticket, I need to fly for a while." I flew away, had time to work, Yefim flew on vacation, collected my things and took me back. It was hard to fly again, it seems to me, I was smiling sincerely three months ago. I tried to console myself somehow. To be frank, here I do not have not enough hangouts, but professionalism. Recently, I was very upset. There is a project called "School of a Young Leader" of Indigenous Minorities. And all is well in this project, young people are drawn to knowledge, but there is nobody to teach! They were taught by a person, a personal growth coach, who is deeply behind 50. He already does not have energy himself, which must be given to the young. And to light, there must be a person who has not forgotten what it's like to be burning yourself.
EFIM: The Internet is the biggest problem, I've already forgotten what speed is and how to measure it! Tried streaming video on Rostelecom, audio communication is more or less, but the channel is narrow. A couple of the first video we had several times flew, money just burned into the void, or traffic burned. Then we learned that for 3-8 hours 2 gigabytes can be downloaded. At night, we have a cheaper tariff - 0,35 cents - we began to guess the traffic that we had, 1000 rubles for 4 gigabytes. But when there are a lot of releases, 3-4 in a row, it hits your pocket.
Among my friends there is a joke that our district, anyway at all, we have our own flag, our coat of arms, we in general can separate and sail, because they are autonomous! Our periphery is something unique. The North is checking. When someone arrives here for work, not everyone can stand these polar nights, days, winds, atmospheric pressure, because we are on the border with the cosmos. Who does not stand, leaves. With some things, the truth is hard to get used to. Because of the lack of unlimited Internet, many yearn for. This is the main question for all young people.
TRASH TALK FROM THE FORMER
EFIM: Classic delusions and stories about Chukotka are, of course, yarangs, Chukchi, white bears and so on, you can read it in any anecdote. But in our group there is a type of people who left here and do not understand in any way how we continue to live here. They are ruined: how can you here, Lord, what is it, come to us in the mud, it's great! This causes me the greatest internal dissonance. Plus there is still a hacking of what is happening here. They made the road, aah, that means something else will be broken. That is, if they do something good, it will start hate speech, trash talk, all the fashionable now has its form. This is a classic of delusions, which I encountered from the former for a year and a half. In 2016, when I was on vacation, I heard that we make money in Chukotka. As in an anecdote: "It's good in the North, cold influences the salary. Money here shovels with shovels. Mom, they got money for a shovel! ". Perhaps these canons remained, that he dressed in Chukotka, took a sack of gold and went on vacation.
Photo Shoot: Alexander Krasnov
EFIM: I have many adult colleagues at work who have already lived, they say that they used to fly to a beer in Magadan, it was cool! And now everyone called, in one country we live, even the northern surcharges are limited now, and the salary, in principle, too. Coefficients - such a question, not everyone and not everything is possible, depends on the company, the employer.
There is an opinion that the inhabitants of Chukotka can not endure the heat. Not used. Once I had a little vacation for a summer. I specifically chose not the hottest time and flew in February, but found June-July. I went to Voronezh. The heat is not to say that it's direct, but I spent two months lying under the air conditioner. Personally, I'm annoyed that I'm sticky, a couple of friends have the same theme. But with the intolerance of the heat you can argue, because my brother was in Turkey, and he is fine. It's all psychosomatic.
Photo: Alexey Mikulin
EFIM: Residents of Chukotka on the mainland can be recognized by a special mentality. We with ours, singers, understand each other more. About Yuzhak, about the pipe, about something else. They don't seem to look at us at all, although they have to chew on another. My friend told me when he came to the university, everyone learned that he was from Pevek. Some girl comes up and shows a mobile phone, touches her finger and says: “Maaaabilnik”. Then he pulls out his own and says: “I have too much.” There the girl was a little space, apparently trying to joke or flirt like that.
LERA: The Chukchi, who preserve their customs, can tell a lot. They still remember some words and songs, they can say something in Chukchi, and 30-year-olds already do not know their native language. And this is a very big problem. At our management of social policy introduction of teaching of the native language even costs in the plan. It's funny, you come to Chukotka, there lives an indigenous population that does not know the language. And it is almost impossible to learn it! Those who are in blood speak perfectly; he caresses the rumor when it pours without straining. But I break the language right away when I say the first word. I really like Chukchi songs, but here they are reduced to such a minimum, to monotonous ethno sound from 3-4 Chukchi phrases, but still beautiful. I interviewed the mistress of the yaranga, who made this home with her own hands, she made skins, sticks for her, everything, everything. This year in Moscow at the exhibition "Treasures of the North" her yarang took first place in the nomination of national dwelling and national cuisine, but there are not many such.
Photo Shoot: Anastasia Karpenko
LERA: Chukchi - they are completely unsophisticated. They say they think. Maybe this is just my opinion, but I didn’t notice slyness behind them. It seems they do not have this in their blood, they say everything in the forehead. Another example: at the “Young Leader’s School”, where 18 teenagers from Pevek City District participated, they started asking questions - did you like it, and would you like to become a leader? And one is completely calm: “No. I participated, but I will never be a leader, I don’t like it. ”
HEAVENLY DIMMER AND WEATHER PSYCHOSES
EFIM: The polar night in Chukotka begins on November 27 and January 16 retreats. This does not happen in one second, gradually, gradually, and you realize that already in the night. We started a video blog in March, more or less light day appeared. Another moment, we began to shoot from the panoramas of the city, and we also wanted to distinguish ourselves from many others, and also removed my eyeliners on the street. Very often, the weather interfered. Leroy and I copied the duplicates on 100 once, with shaking, frozen hands, so that there was simply no echo and the wind didn’t hit the microphone. The wind here is the most unpredictable, well, when the snow flies. And plus cold. In the summer it becomes easier, but, again, you will not be protected from the wind, we need a separate microphone. I originally bought a go pro action camera, I thought it would be more convenient to take it with me, but it turned out that neither a microphone, nor anything connected to it, and we often “had fun” when subscribers wrote about it. At the interview, the sound very sadly subsides, and in the dark, as in poor lighting, it starts to pixelate. I discovered a lot during the year in shooting in the conditions of the Far North, this is a kind of experience.
Along with the polar night and day, one of the amazing wonders of Chukotka is the southerner, a very strong wind, up to 50 m / s, having a monsoon effect (the city was built taking into account these hurricane winds - the houses were erected so that each neighborhood had a wall-building overlapping strong air flow, protecting other structures - East Russia). You can just be knocked down, carried away, dragged. Its most basic feature is that it is long lasting, it can take a week, a month, it is clear that a month is on the brink of fantasy, but recently it blew for a week. At this time, schools are being canceled, little employees are left at home, very important cars are driving, and everything is seriously becoming, because it is dangerous. And the door can be slammed, and anything else, such a quality breeze! Lera when she came, she said, this is the wind, 20 meters per second! I answered that this is still tolerable, so there will be forty, then let's have some fun! We had a New Year tree too.
Photo Shoot: Anastasia Karpenko
EFIM: ForI us the usual thing when the wind moves cars, turns garbage cans, brings or carries tons of snow, floods roads (passages, passages, paths, boxes). And it simply tears and takes away everything that lies badly. As a rule, such cases are rare, since with the experience everything that has not been screwed up has become bolted, and all the bad things have become hard standing. In such weather your house is a fortress. It becomes even more cozy and lamp-like under the yoke of the elements, when the gusts hit the windows so loud and strong that it seems that they are about to knock them out. Sometimes it even seems that they are slightly bent inward. But, I think, this is already a game of reason.
EFIM: The northern lights above Pevek are clearly visible. Bright, juicy, straight snakes such in the sky stir, green, long. At first, it's very cool, then you get used to it. But sometimes nature still surprises you and gives out such a northern light as the pillars of light, and you do not believe that it is real. And the wind is also a bonus, its own romance. My nephew is so joyous, he walks about, oh-ho-ho, nothing needs to be done to the school, it is always canceled with a strong southerner. To schoolboys in general a лафа, and I with heat it recollect these moments in the childhood, and it is pleased.
Photo: Vladimir Zavialov
EFIM: We have a house near the sea shore, it is very convenient, you can make a shish kebab nearby and a brazier. And somehow in the middle of August we gathered, I open the window - the snow is flying! We went in the jackets. And mosquitoes interspersed with snow - this is also normal. There is a video where in July behind me snow in my career, and mosquitoes fly. Mosquitoes are generally frenzied, Lera and I shot a video for the next contest, mosquitoes are not that much, they're just insane in the summer. In the tundra, when only you are from living creatures, and, let's say, your dog, you can be sad.
GOLDEN EGGS OF CHUKOTKA
EFIM: Before the New Year, we just posted a shock price. Eggs for 380 rubles for a dozen, that's tough, that's cool! We have the coolest eggs. Bread black without sprinkling 60 rubles, a loaf of 100 rubles, but it's here done. I, of course, fly every two years on vacation, and I heard that there are eggs for 50 rubles, but I do not believe in it, as in a fairy tale. I say, you deceive me, there is no such thing! Milk from us 120-150 руб.
Photo Shoot: Valery Khlebnikov
EFIM: Air traffic is generally a sadness, longing, somewhere in the region of 40 thousand rubles. to Moscow in one direction, back and forth already 80. Therefore, every two years I fly on vacation, I get paid for the trip.
LERA: There is an opinion that those who live in Chukotka have their pockets tightly stuffed with money, and the pots with the gold of the dwarfs are hidden in the apartment. Therefore, the boundaries of "friendship" are quickly delineated on vacation, where every barely familiar person tries to look into your pocket, thus showing that he is very curious about how much you earn "in the Severs!". I am far from the image of "Mr. Crabs", and greed is not my distinguishing feature. But huge salaries are a myth. It was a reality before the collapse of the USSR. And now Chukotka is just rising from its knees and is still standing in the defending stance. Perhaps, even 8-10 years - and everything will again be like in the Soviet Union, but today ... Take, for example, the prices of products.
Photo Shoot: Pavel Koshelenko
LERA: The story that the fresh char and the smelt themselves jump into your mouth, ahead of the freshly deer, is just a myth. Sometimes my hands drop when I pay for okroshka 1100 rubles, and without finding bread kvass. That is a standard set - cucumbers 3 pieces, green 2 beam, eggs 10 pieces and sour cream - cost me more than in 1000 rubles. And no, it's not a charge of huge inflated prices. I'm perfectly oriented in pricing and I know what it's worth to deliver to Pevek at least something.
ABROAD TWO WORLDS
LERA: Young people are now returning to Chukotka, they are starting to work, to reorganize the space. The first time I flew to 2015, and now 2017 is coming to an end - in three years the colossal changes, the release of the 95 year of birth is coming back, which disappeared in 2012 year. They come back and begin to rock this boat quietly, and it must be swung! It is important that it does not stall at the beginning, because it happens. Professionals need to keep something, ruble, and the ruble is not always the motivation that a person needs. Now there are young specialists in Chukotka who work because they are interested in it. They are considering moving, but inside this northern edge. For example, from Anadyr to Pevek come to work for a vacation period. More precisely, to fly on such a toy lego-plane, which the local call "Dashkov", either on 12, or at 14 places. He is flying very slowly. In Canada, it is used as a walking tour. There are still "ANY", but I have not had time to fly on them yet. Arrive of course and helicopters from villages and neighboring settlements.
I plan to stay here for a while. We first wanted to leave through 2 of the year, now I am considering options to stay and, to some extent, transport my loved ones to Chukotka, because I am protected from all sides. Maternity, I think about it too, and I really like the institute of motherhood in Chukotka, here children under one year get free mixtures, purees. A pot of good mix on the mainland costs at least 700 rubles, and here one of the best mixes for up to a year is given for free if you do not have milk. Also prikorm, mashed potatoes. I really like kindergarten and school. I would like the childhood of my children to pass here. I was whispering to Fime in my ear; more than 35 children should be born in Pevek before the end of the year. Good figure.
The level of medicine is the only thing that confuses. And when we discuss the issue of breeding our family (laughs - East Russia), we are thinking of giving birth on the mainland, and returning here. I still do not feel so much the spirit of Pevek, I confess. They are trying to establish medicine, and the progress is colossal. Here there is a reconstruction of the hospital, it is completely remodeled under the key, everything was demolished, even the partitions were broken, only the external box was left.
EFIM: Pevek is now at the turn, on the Rubicon. Personally for me it is as written by our fellow countryman Timur Akhmetov: "Pevek got stuck with one leg in a scoop, and the other tries to step into the atomic future." Pevek romantically bathes in the setting bright sun and smokes a half-century coal-fired power plant. " The city is straight contrasts-contrasts. On the one hand, we have built beautiful children's playgrounds, on the other - old old buildings are being destroyed. The demolition is removed. In general, the last 2-3 years I see positive dynamics, the construction of a hospital, yard children's playgrounds, money or in connection with the FNPP began to give, or they were and the implementation of projects began. The dam, which was done for a very long time, was launched. Not so bad, and it's worth talking about!
EFIM: There was a period when everyone left from here (at the end of the last century - the beginning of this century, Pevek became an absolute record-holder for a relative decline in population, the census in 1989-year - 12 thousand people, 2002-th - 5,2 thousand people - East Russia ). Lera recently was at a meeting with the head, they announced that now we have a population of 5,5 thousand inhabitants. There is such a phrase that Russia will begin to reborn from the north, and I feel it inside. Probably, that's why I took care of all this.
We are connected to the programs of TORs, the Far Eastern hectare, the Free Port of Vladivostok, to all these VEFs and economic developments. Today read: due to the fact that we are the most stable region, the government allocated us 406 million rubles. on the county. If all this money now goes for good and for development, apparently, see the potential.
It seems to me that we are also doing something useful for society and people. You will read later in the comments, they say, "shed a tear" or "touched", and it catches. What in this world I did well not only myself. This is why we started it all - people, especially those who left Pevek, have a wild longing. It is a fact. One guy said that my friend showed me a vidos, he washed it for a week. He said, aaa native Pevek, all business! Tears. Any creativity is created for it so that it touches so much.
But we are not turned on in Chukotka and Pevek until fanaticism. Yes, we love them, but I, for example, for a very long time went to this love, so pure and sincere. We must understand that there are still some ambitions, which, unfortunately, Chukotka and Pevek will not cover. If I feel that I need to move on, I will move. At the moment, we are good here, we are really happy here, we are building a family. And we get pleasure from the nature of Chukotka, the tundra, the mad expanses of space, from which it simply blows down the roof. It's all worthy to spend here at least some part of your life. Because you just go and bang! - you find some structure, whether something was there, or not, just a mysterious place. Cartoon Gravity Falls like from here they drew it, it seems, it's somewhere here, in the tundra everything happens. After Voronezh Pevek was for me as a hospital for the soul. I realized how much more important for me than the mainland. What we have achieved means that we can achieve something far from a billion blessings. Stay in the conservation, in the reservation everyone needs, it is under all these wonders of nature inside that something wakes up.
Photo Shoot: Denis Smirnov
EFIM: Yes, we are amicably admiring the beauty of natural phenomena, but, dropping a glance from heaven to earth, we begin to spit from bored dead roads and crumbling buildings. Our city is, as I like to say, at the edge of the universe. Around for many thousands of kilometers stretches the wilderness. Exceptions are mining companies, villages and ghost settlements. Against the background of this greatness we are an amazing mole on the body of the Chukchi land, which defended its piece of territory with blood and nоtom, grasping firmly for him. And this birthmark is trying. Oh, how he tries, with all his might to enter into a new time, without losing himself at the same time.
Photo: Nikolay Ratnikov
PS By the way. There are no stray cats in Pevek! Absolutely. On the street, to put it mildly, it is uncomfortable, because the tailed have occupied an unexpected, and at the same time very logical place for heating ... Details here